[URBANTH-L]NEWS: Caracas: The City that Built Itself
Angela Jancius
jancius3022 at comcast.net
Mon May 18 18:20:33 EDT 2009
Caracas, The City that Built Itself
May 14, 2009 -- Triple Canopy
by Joshua Bauchner
http://canopycanopycanopy.com/6/the_city_that_built_itself
Utopian modernism turned on its head in Caracas, where residents have made
fifty-year-old superblock housing projects into the locus of sprawling
improvised settlements.
ON MANY MAPS OF CARACAS, the parroquia of 23 de Enero appears as empty
space. A few roads are shown traversing the northwest corner of the city's
central valley, spreading like ivy tendrils as they join together the
jumbled street grids to the west, north, and east. But the space where the
parish should be is blank. As you enter Caracas on the new, elevated highway
that channels traffic into the city through the northernmost tail of the
Andes, it is these unmarked areas of the map that you first encounter.
Beneath the highway, red cinder-block houses with corrugated tin roofs
cascade down the hillsides. The ranchos closest to the highway are painted
in the stereotypical bright colors and pastels of the tropics. Those that
sit farther away were spared the old, cheap trick of rehabilitation and
retain the rusty hue of dust and aged cinder block.
In the city's San Francisco Valley, these slums, where nearly half of
Caraqueños live, dramatically run up against a series of gargantuan
buildings with punchy red, yellow, blue, and white facades cut out from the
hillside-superbloques. Each of these housing projects is forty meters tall
and over eighty meters long. Nearly swallowed by ranchos, they are vestiges
of modernist urbanism long since colonized by the realities of
twentieth-century Caracas.
The last Venezuelan dictator, General Marcos Pérez Jiménez, oversaw the
construction of the superblocks. The project was the concrete centerpiece of
the New National Ideal, an ambitious renewal program intended to foment "the
rational transformation of the physical environment." In the capital, this
entailed a massive endeavor to rid the city of its metastasizing slums.
Between Pérez Jiménez's fraudulent election in 1952 and downfall in 1958,
the state built 28,763 housing units, many of them contained in Caracas'
eighty-seven superblocks. The jewel was 23 de Enero, host to thirty-eight of
them. Inaugurated in 1955 with the moniker 2 de Diciembre, in celebration of
the dictator's assumption of power, the parroquia was rechristened 23 de
Enero in 1958, to commemorate his flight from the country. It now stands as
an ironic monument to the dictator and a continuing refutation of his
legacy.
Because of Pérez Jiménez's tendency toward self-glorification, two-thirds of
the blocks in 23 de Enero were still empty as of January 1958, years after
their completion, waiting to be dedicated on the next anniversary of the
dictator's ascension. But on the twenty-third of the month, as Pérez Jiménez
was overthrown, rumors spread through the subsequent citywide celebration
that plentiful, free apartments were available in the partially uninhabited
project. The rush on apartments carried over from the superblocks to the
open land surrounding them, where Caraqueños began building houses out of
urban refuse, establishing clusters of makeshift ranchos that would soon
become full-fledged barrios. The dictatorship's greatest symbol of regimen
and progress was taken over and folded back into the Caracas it was to have
replaced.
This admixture of Latin America's two most prevalent forms of shelter,
modernist housing blocks and improvised slum dwellings, is not unique, but
the scale, site, history, and density of 23 de Enero-over eighty thousand
residents live in the parroquia's superblocks and ranchos-make it
exceptional.
IT IS DIFFICULT TO IMAGINE Olga Marí Lugo building anything. She is around
five feet tall and eighty years old, with a compact, weathered face and a
frail body tented by a knit sweater. When she picks up her cup and saucer,
they rattle softly in her hands. We are sitting in her living room, the
center of the house she has been building in 23 de Enero for nearly fifty
years. In 1961, when she arrived in barrio Brisas de Primavera with her
grandmother and three sons, a friend gave her a small parcel of land on a
hillside, which had been neatly sculpted into a green incline by government
planners. The house, one of the first to be built in the barrio, started
like all ranchos: cinder blocks and tin planted precariously on the incline.
"I had to leave my children here alone to go work," she remembers. "We lived
in a marginal situation. But I continued working, working, working; I made
the walls of the house little by little, little by little. This lasted
twenty-two years."
Originally, "rancho" denoted a rural farmer's house, a basic structure
contiguous with the land itself and constructed out of necessity. In the
early twentieth century, legions of rural migrants transported the rancho
with them to the city. But unlike their rural counterparts, urban ranchos
are constructed from the detritus of the city's growth: zinc, iron lattice,
cardboard, rusted tin, cinder block, and cement. The ranchos in the newest,
poorest barrios at the city's edges still exhibit these elements, with
packed-earth floors and steps, tin roofs resting on risers, and basic square
openings in the walls for windows. In older barrios, including those of 23
de Enero, such basic structures are rarer, while more "finished" ranchos
prevail.
Though Olga has long since retired from construction work, her sons have
continued to build, and the family's three-story home is now one such
"finished" rancho. A covered entryway leads to a naturally cooled,
high-ceilinged living room, which is flooded with light entering from the
nearby kitchen windows. The house is spacious, with a great sense of scale.
On a clear and temperate morning, Olga and I look out from the balcony at a
layer of red cinder-block additions crowning the houses of surrounding
barrio Sierra Maestra. As she tells the history of her house and family,
there is a subtle transition in pronouns, from the masculine lo, referring
to rancho, to the feminine la, referring to casa. Though Venezuelan housing
statistics locate the distinction between rancho and casa in the type and
finish of the walls, the transition from the former to the latter is neither
linear nor teleological. The architect Teolinda Bolívar describes the rancho
as "never finished, simply stopped." With births and marriages come new
rooms and floors. The latest addition to Olga's house is a third-floor shop
for her youngest son's carpentry business.
As the barrio is constructed rancho by rancho, individual housing needs are
satisfied and replaced by collective needs: roads, water, schools, stores.
Individual building efforts are subsumed by collective ones, which not only
determine the physical shape of the neighborhood but define daily life in
the community. Bolívar describes the resident of the barrio as neither homo
economicus (economic man) nor homo faber (working man), but rather homo
convivalis, a being constituted by human relationships that persist
irrespective of the government in power.
During the few months I spent in Caracas last year researching and exploring
parroquia 23 de Enero and talking with its residents, I often passed Friday
evenings in a parking lot overlooking the barrios with my friend Maricarmen.
We ate fat slices of dense pound cake and drank bottles of the ubiquitous
Polar beer as twilight settled over the hills. The massive polychromatic
boxes hovered before us, engulfed at their bases by a hive of burnt-red
ranchos, each buzzing with laundry lines and water tanks, linked by tangles
of black cable that arced through the sky from one row of ranchos to the
next. The thump of reggaeton and the slap of dominoes on nearby tables
filled the air, puncturing the city's dull rumble. As darkness arrived, the
blocks and ranchos melted into the far-off handmade street lamps flickering
from barrios across the ravine, weaving a pattern of faint lights mirroring
the dim stars above.
ON THE EDGES of Spain's Nueva Granada viceroyalty, Caracas grew in the mold
of most European colonial cities, with preordained norms instilled in its
gridded street plan and central plaza. The tranquil weather and slow pace of
life gave "the city of red roofs," as it was commonly known among its upper
class, an abiding gentility.
By the mid-twentieth century, the sleepy capital city had become a
burgeoning metropolis rapidly outgrowing its old colonial infrastructure. In
his 1966 history of Caraqueño architecture, Caracas in Three Periods, Carlos
Raúl Villanueva, the primary architect of 23 de Enero, declared Caracas "no
longer properly a city, but a formation of different molecules." Between
1935 and 1961, with the country's agricultural sector moribund and
ever-increasing oil profits flowing into the capital, the population of
Caracas quintupled, while Venezuela's as a whole merely doubled. Nearly a
million rural migrants and southern European immigrants flocked to the city,
transforming it into a sprawl of tin- and zinc-roofed ranchos. By 1948, when
Pérez Jiménez took power as part of a military junta, the barrios had become
so widespread in Caracas that the rural rancho had become an official
designation in federal urban-housing statistics. Within three years, it
became the name of the enemy. The government issued a study condemning the
barrios as "a threat against the morals, health, and security" of the
nation, and its 1951 housing plan declared "war against the rancho."
Tasked with prosecuting this war and solving the so-called housing problem,
the public-housing bureau hired Villanueva to lead TABO, its new
architecture studio. TABO's cheap, long-lasting housing was to be the
central front in the New Pérez Jiménez and his architects adopted much of
Corbusier's utopian vision and rhetoric. The superblocks were designed to
synthesize different classes, values, and lives into "an organic community."
They were to be part of a radical master plan to reconstruct all Caracas
with the balance and order craved by modernist architects and dictators
alike. Villanueva adapted Corbusier's design for the Venezuelan climate by
including open-air passages; he accommodated the country's population
explosion by expanding the proportions of each superblock to include 160
apartments on sixteen floors and by building double and triple superblocks.
Ultimately, though, the superblock lost much of its utopian character in the
construction process. As the Caraqueño population grew, so did its
discontent with the dictatorship, which was manifest in the growing number
of fractured oppositional organizations. Pérez Jiménez redirected this
pressure into his already intense public-works projects, rushing 23 de Enero
from early sketches to breaking ground. His demands halved the total
footprint of the project and brought the superblocks to construction without
many of the features originally proposed by Villaneuva, including pilotis
and loggia, north-south orientation, duplex apartments, interior trash
chutes, and large common spaces on every fourth floor.
In the transition away from dictatorial whim after January 23, 1958,
disarray presided in the city and the government. Student volunteers
haphazardly began adjudicating disputes between new residents of 23 de Enero
regarding their apartments and land. Delivering services and collecting rent
became increasingly difficult as the population skyrocketed. Amid all this,
construction by Banco Obrero was halted. Burdened with the debt left over
from the dictator's many public-works projects, the government steered its
public-housing resources toward smaller-scale projects. Three years after
Pérez Jiménez fled, an in-depth state study of 23 de Enero called for the
cessation of "all types of construction of superblocks."
ALTHOUGH THE SUPERBLOCKS failed to transform urban life in the ways
predicted by modernist planners, they have fostered community. At one point,
Olga spoke of El Caracazo, a violent upheaval in Caracas surrounding
government incompetence, failures, and anti-dissident crackdowns in February
1989, during which one of her sons died. The violence in the parroquia was
particularly acute, but she recalls a "sentimiento de pertenencia" ("feeling
of belonging") persisting throughout the chaos.
This feeling extends to the heights of the superblocks as well. Deprived of
necessary funding and functional administration by a succession of
governments, the superblocks are sustained both apartment by apartment and
in small, ad hoc organizations. Impromptu organizing has been the hallmark
of 23 de Enero, with committees tackling problems from physical
infrastructure to gun violence and drug use. While the collapse of the
modernist promise of cheap, dense housing for the poor has followed a
similar course in decrepit clusters of towers everywhere from St. Louis to
the former Soviet republics, here the community has managed to stanch social
deterioration.
When I first arrived in Caracas and met with a group of community organizers
who lived in 23 de Enero, I asked them how residents see the distinctions
between different superblocks and barrios. Like the ranchos that surround
them, the superblocks are always being renovated, and they are in vastly
different states of repair. Some have peeling facades and trash-strewn front
yards. Their elevators require full-time operators, and the exterior trash
chutes disintegrate as they descend from the top floor. Others have luscious
gardens and functional chutes. Their elevators run smoothly on their own,
and the paint is brilliant. I heard rumors that a few large families had
even connected vertically aligned apartments into duplexes. The physical
conditions of the structures seemed to me to reflect distinct traditions of
collective maintenance or neglect. But everyone I asked evaded my questions
with a quizzical look and told me I was missing the point. They felt at home
throughout La Veinte Tres, not only in particular barrios or blocks.
"Twenty-three de Enero is, and always has been, revolutionary,"
ninety-two-year-old Francisco Egañez told me when I visited his home in
Bloque 50. For Francisco, who wore a red flannel shirt and a red hat bearing
the logo of his union, the parroquia was always a site of resistance, an
oppositional stronghold within the city of the government. Even today it
maintains its reputation as both a bastion of Chavismo and the home of a
handful of remaining radicals independent of the president. But in a city
supersaturated with the word revolution-Ipostel, the dysfunctional postal
service, is, by its own account, "revolutionizing the mail"-it's nearly
impossible to parse such pronouncements. Nevertheless, the interdependence
of life in 23 de Enero does seem to represent a more enduring, more
difficult form of collective politics than that offered up on President
Chávez's weekly Aló Presidente talk show.
Birthed and orphaned by the state, 23 de Enero is now home to residents who
have spent years struggling to preserve the lives they have created for
themselves. Ligia Martínez de Elías, one of the first residents of Bloque
20-21, said to me, "I lived through Pérez Jiménez, I lived through Caldera,
and now I live under Chávez. Regardless of the government, if you don't
work, you can't eat. One doesn't live by the government."
OFFICIALLY, JANUARY 23, 1958, marked the Venezuelan democratic revolution.
But the actual role of the state changed very little. The 1958 Punto Fijo
Pact led to a political system dominated by two centrist parties dedicated
to taming the dual exigencies of oil wealth and population growth, as the
state had done since the emergence of a worldwide market for petroleum in
World War I.
Like the dictator, the parties facilitated the extraction of crude oil from
the country's subsoil; but after 1958 the people were allowed to cast
ballots affirming the legitimacy of the system every five years. This
arrangement endured until Hugo Chávez's 1998 campaign, which promised and
delivered a break with partidocracia. It is less clear whether Chávez has
altered the state's essential character. In Venezuela, "the state has
nothing to do with reality," asserted the playwright José Ignacio Cabrujas
in a mid-1980s lecture sponsored by the Presidential Commission for State
Reform. "The state is a magnanimous sorcerer" buoyed by oil, which "is
fantastic and induces fantasies"-first among them the fantasy of progress.
Historian Fernando Coronil terms Cabrujas's conception of Venezuela "the
magical state" in his book of the same title. Under Pérez Jiménez, who was
convinced Venezuela could will itself to modernity, the state produced a
series of ostentatious performances that promised miracles but delivered
little more than sparks from a wand. The repudiation of the state's ultimate
magic act, the eradication of the city's slums, was not confined to January
23 or its immediate aftermath, but has been lived out over and over in the
construction of the parroquia by its own residents.
On one of my first visits to the parroquia, a friend of a friend asked
whether I had been to Monte Piedad, a barrio on the parroquia's eastern tip.
I had. "Did you notice that there is no Bloque 8?" he inquired. I shook my
head, and he proceeded to tell me a story I would hear many times during my
stay in Caracas, though I could never confirm it: In an act of immense
generosity that Latin American dictators tend to perform only for one
another, Pérez Jiménez gifted an entire superblock to Colombia's dictator,
General Gustavo Rojas Pinilla-Bloque 8. The polychromatic facade, exterior
elevator column, endless square cutouts in the concrete balusters, and huge
rooftop water tanks were all replicated thirteen hundred kilometers
southwest of Caracas in Cali, Colombia. He smiled wryly and said, "The
Colombians call it 'El Venezolano.'"
Today, the parroquia encompassing the superblocks is, to its neighbors, as
prominent a symbol of Venezuela as the buildings themselves. Chávez has
clearly learned something from 23 de Enero: The federal government now funds
community councils directly, empowering them to make decisions about
infrastructure improvements and social programs. These community councils
are buttressed by misiones, federal programs to increase access to
healthcare and education in the barrios, and they have begun to foster
"sentimientos de pertenencia" in other parts of the city. Yet in Caracas, as
in so many global megacities, the question of housing remains essentially
unanswered, and the high rhetoric of modernism has yet to find a successor.
The physical lessons of the barrio can and must be learned by architects and
planners in Caracas and beyond, where slums and superblocks are now integral
parts of the built environment. The recent incredible barrio-rehabilitation
projects in Medellín, Colombia, demonstrate progress in this vein. Chávez,
however, may not have fully processed the lessons of 23 de Enero. Separate
from his progressive and successful community councils and misiones, he has
begun construction on an entirely new city called Caribia for the residents
of the capital's poorest barrios just outside Caracas-a project squarely in
the tradition of the magical state.
In a 1955 issue of Integral, Venezuela's leading architecture and urbanism
review, Jorge Romero Gutierrez proposed a modified superblock that "would
incline along the plane of the hill." In the accompanying sketches, each
apartment has a garden covering its roof and a room built into the hill in
back. They resemble a mass-produced barrio, but with additional niceties.
The article only mentions the real architects of this modified block, barrio
residents, to criticize their way of life as being incompatible with
"well-planned housing."
Ironically, the same demographic and political pressures that inspired
Gutierrez's design eventually led to the dissolution of the state agencies
that would have funded its realization, and the plans never left the page.
Nevertheless, the homemade model has thrived. Just several hundred meters
from the presidential palace, 23 de Enero sits on its hill, baldly exposed
to all those entering the city from the sea and the air, a living testament
to Venezuela's legacy of housing built well, if not planned.
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